Step into the Pai Portal
- Jessica Jaye
- Nov 5
- 5 min read
Have you ever heard of this place called Pai? (Pronunciation: pie) It’s a magical wonderland where circus hippies from the future spin fire at night and nerd out in earthy cafes by day. Yes, this place actually exists. It’s my favorite in the world.
“What’s your favorite country?” non-travelers usually ask me. The answer has never been clear, but last year, I found Pai which means the answer is Pai.
The Basics
Pai isn’t technically its own country, but it is its own world. The touristy town nestled in the northern mountains of Thailand is notorious for being a hippie place with something for everyone. With the nearest city a windy 2 hours and 45 minutes away, it’s easy to see how this place can become a sort of a portal. Surrounded by luscious nature with access to crystal filled rivers and delicious hot springs, musical happenings range from reggae, to kirtan, to drum and bass, and psytrance. There’s tipsy tubbing down the river and sober New Year’s Eve parties. There’s Thai boxing and yin yoga. There are lessons on fire spinning and breathwork sessions. Have I mentioned the numerous saunas and ice baths? The range of this small town goes on.
Transportation
In Pai, the best option for transportation is motorcycle or scooter. The roads are narrow and driving a car is actually quite stressful. During high season, there’s a surplus of inexperienced drivers on the road which means there are multiple accidents… is it inappropriate to laugh? I mean, fortunately for me, my first crash was on private land. While practicing driving back and forth in my yard, I got distracted, panicked, and drove straight into a pole. Falling to the side, the scooter hit my leg before I jumped off and it crashed to the ground. Luckily, there was minimal damage to myself and the scooter, but crashing seems to be a right of passage for many tourists who visit this awesome little town.
Saturday Market
If you’re looking to really understand the true essence of Pai (in relation to the international community that thrives there), it’s best to head to the Saturday market. At the Saturday market, local Thai vendors sell food, clothes, and handmade instruments, among other things. You’ll hear a live jam coming from the restaurant on the left corner and a DJ set from the hostel down the street on the right. A local non-profit will be out there with circus toys encouraging kids of all ages to play and experiment while various groups of people sit in the grass hanging out. Some of us (like me) do acroyoga while others kick a soccer ball around or sit in a circle making music (also me). It's a great place to vibe, socialize, and connect with other people.
Community
Most of us who live here are conscious people who intentionally choose peace, joy, and healthy living. Of course, there are exceptions, but at least for me, those are the people I’m surrounded by. During high season, we live vibrantly active social lives. There’s something to do every day of the week. The organized events I go to regularly are the ecstatic dance on Saturdays at Dreamscape, and the kirtan on Sundays at Janym. The Thursday/Sunday fire show at Paradise also gets a worthy mention for its creativity, fun, and entertainment. On Fridays, there’s a friend who organizes a hangout by the river. On Sundays, we’ll also go for a walk through nature. The rest of the time, I might be coworking in a vegan cafe with a view of the mountains or at a class or workshop… life here is a literal dream. Many of us are healthy, supportive of each other, and generally satisfied with our lives. It’s epic.
Conflict
Occasionally, there’s a bit of tension between the local Thai community and the tourists. The Thai people aren’t really concerned about those of us who live here, but the culture difference from some less thoughtful tourists sparks resentment. For example, Thai culture is quite conservative. When men walk around shirtless and women are driving around in bikinis, it causes discomfort for the locals. Also, in many places, it’s customary for you to remove your shoes when you enter a building, but some people walk around barefoot defeating the purpose. And then of course smoking. Weed is legal in Thailand, but it’s technically illegal to smoke in public places (like the Saturday market). When tourists light up wherever they please, this is another sign of disrespect to many locals. Thai people are generally helpful, kind, and overly considerate, but the surplus of inconsiderate tourists invokes frustration and encourages them to put their guards up.
Recommendations:
Dreamscape
Dreamscape is a circus and flow arts training space. Here, you can find a sauna lounge complete with ice baths and a vegan cafe with a great sunset view. In addition, they’re a dynamic venue for festivals, events, and workshops. Notorious for their Saturday ecstatic dances and LED filled dome, this place is just cool. It’s by far one of my favorite places to be in Pai. I’m there on my computer at the cafe, on the dance floor processing emotions, at the festivals, in the sauna… literally, I love this place!
Atlas Valley
Atlas Valley is my top recommendation if you’re looking for a place to stay. This hostel has the best vibe. Personally, I’ve never stayed there because I rent a house, but I have visited for their events, workshops, and their awesome fire. They’ve got a 9 out of 10 review on hostel world if that means anything to you. Also, their vegan burger is quite delicious! Even if you’re staying somewhere else, keep an eye on their instagram for events. The guests there are always extending their stays and having a good time.
Janym
Janym is a whole-plant based foods restaurant and yoga studio. Their menu is packed with nutrient dense meals that’ll leave the average traveler feeling confused. The food is priced higher than average for Thailand because of the quality, but it’s definitely worth it at least once in a while. Their ceremonial cacao is different than any I’ve ever had. The shot sized glass is filled with a thick, warm, and creamy liquid that really packs a punch! They offer a variety of yoga classes, breath-work sessions, sound healing, and community events. Though all that is nice, I mostly recommend Janym because of their Sunday Kirtan. The donation based event almost always leaves you feeling like you can fly.
[I've only taken videos of kirtan. Sorry for the lack of visual stimulation]
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